Whipped Shea Body Butter (Non Greasy): Recipe, Formula and Method

A whipped shea body butter is a light, cloud soft moisturiser that melts into the skin, made by whipping nourishing butters with fast absorbing oils for a non greasy finish. It is also a cosmetic product, so the moment you sell it in Great Britain it must comply with the UK Cosmetic Products Enforcement Regulations 2013 and the retained Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009, overseen by the Office for Product Safety and Standards. This guide gives you the full formulation, the method, and a clear path to selling it legally.

This recipe is part of our maker series. If you want a wider library of tested formulas across skincare, hair care and more, our 100 Beauty Formulas cosmetic formulation guide collects one hundred professional formulations in one place.

Why this body butter is not greasy

Pure shea butter is a wonderful moisturiser, but on its own it can feel heavy and greasy, which puts many people off. The trick to a light, non greasy whipped butter is threefold. First, balance the rich butters with light, fast absorbing oils that sink in quickly. Second, add a small amount of arrowroot powder, which gives a silky, dry touch finish and takes away any oily slip. Third, whip the mixture to incorporate air, which turns a dense butter into a light, spreadable cream.

Get those three things right and you have a body butter that feels indulgent going on but absorbs to a soft, powdery finish rather than a shine. It is the kind of product that turns a curious customer into a repeat buyer, and it makes a beautiful, giftable jar.

• Anhydrous. With no water, it needs no preservative.
• Fast absorbing. Light oils and arrowroot stop it feeling oily.
• Rich but light. Deep moisture with a soft, airy, whipped texture.

Choosing your butters and oils

The character of a whipped body butter comes from the balance of hard butters and light oils. Shea butter is the soft, creamy heart of most recipes, deeply moisturising and easy to whip. Cocoa butter adds firmness and stability, so a butter with more cocoa holds its shape better in warm weather. Mango butter is a lighter alternative that feels less heavy. For the oils, the lighter and faster absorbing the better, which is why fractionated coconut oil and jojoba work so well here, while heavier oils such as olive or avocado are best used sparingly so the butter does not feel greasy.

The role of each ingredient

• Shea butter. The creamy, moisturising base that whips up beautifully.
• Cocoa butter. Adds firmness and stability, and a faint natural chocolate note.
• Fractionated coconut oil. A light, fast absorbing oil that stops the butter feeling heavy.
• Jojoba oil. Closely matches the skin's own oils and sinks in quickly.
• Arrowroot powder. The secret to a dry touch, non greasy finish.
• Vitamin E. An antioxidant that helps extend the shelf life of the oils.

A word on hygiene and shelf life

Because this butter contains no water, it will not grow bacteria the way a water based cream can, so it does not need a preservative. That said, hygiene still matters. Work with clean, sanitised bowls, utensils and jars, and keep water out of the finished product, both while you make it and when it is used, since any introduced water could allow microbes to grow in an otherwise safe product. Vitamin E is added not as a preservative but as an antioxidant, to slow the oils from going rancid and to extend the shelf life.

Equipment you will need

• A digital scale accurate to one gram
• A heatproof bowl set over a pan of warm water (a double boiler)
• An electric hand mixer or stand mixer for whipping
• A silicone spatula and a whisk
• Clean, sanitised jars with lids
• A thermometer

The whipped body butter formulation

This makes about one medium jar. Everything is by weight, and because there is no water, the percentages are of the total product.

• No preservative needed, but keep it dry. Because this butter is anhydrous, it does not need a preservative. Keep water out of the jar in use, for example by using clean, dry fingers or a small spatula, so nothing can grow in it.
• Vitamin E is an antioxidant, not a preservative. Tocopherol slows the oils from oxidising and going rancid, which extends the shelf life, but it does not protect against bacteria, yeast or mould. Only keeping water out does that.
• Balance the butters and oils. The ratio of butters to light oils sets the firmness. More cocoa butter gives a firmer butter that holds up in warm weather, while more light oil gives a softer, faster absorbing one.
• Fragrance and allergens. If you scent the butter, fragrance and essential oils carry restricted allergens that must be declared on the label above set thresholds. Confirm your levels with an allergen compliance check.

How to make it, step by step

Allow about twenty minutes of active work, plus chilling time before you whip.

1. Melt the butters

Gently melt the shea and cocoa butters together over warm water until just liquid. Do not overheat, as shea can become grainy if it gets too hot.

2. Add the oils and vitamin E

Stir in the fractionated coconut oil, jojoba and vitamin E, then whisk in the arrowroot powder until the mixture is completely smooth with no lumps.

3. Chill until semi solid

Place the bowl in the fridge for thirty to sixty minutes, until the mixture is set firm around the edges but still soft in the middle, roughly the texture of soft butter.

4. Whip

Whip with an electric mixer for three to five minutes until it turns light, pale and fluffy, like whipped cream. Add any fragrance towards the end of whipping.

5. Jar it

Spoon the whipped butter into clean, dry jars, taking care not to press out all the air, so it keeps its light, whipped texture.

Avoiding grainy shea butter

Grainy body butter is the most common frustration, and it is caused by shea butter recrystallising slowly as it cools. Prevent it by melting the butters fully but gently, never letting them get too hot, then cooling the mixture quickly in the fridge before whipping rather than letting it set slowly at room temperature. If your kitchen is warm, store the finished butter somewhere cool so it does not melt and reset, which is another cause of graininess.

Storing your body butter

Keep the finished butter in a cool place out of direct sunlight, with the lid on between uses. It is naturally soft and will melt in high heat, so it is not one to leave in a hot car or a sunny bathroom. Made and stored well, and kept free of water, a whipped body butter will typically stay fresh for around six to twelve months, with the vitamin E helping to hold off rancidity.

Using your body butter

A little whipped body butter goes a long way. Warm a small amount between your fingers and massage it into clean, slightly damp skin, which helps it absorb and lock in moisture. It is especially good for dry areas such as elbows, knees, heels and hands. Because it is concentrated and anhydrous, you need far less than you would of a water based lotion, so a single jar lasts a surprisingly long time.

Whipped butter compared with a lotion

A whipped body butter and a body lotion do a similar job in different ways. A lotion is an emulsion of oil and water, which makes it light and quick to absorb, but because it contains water it must be preserved. A whipped body butter is anhydrous, so it is richer and more occlusive, sealing moisture into the skin, and it needs no preservative. Neither is better, they simply suit different preferences and seasons, which is why many brands offer both. Understanding the difference also helps you notify each product correctly, since they fall under different frame formulations.

From hobby to brand: your first steps to selling

Turning a recipe you love into a product you can sell is an exciting step, and it is more achievable than many makers think. The practical order is simple. Finalise and record your formula with exact percentages and your supplier details, keep clear batch records, and note your dates from the very first batch. Then have the product safety assessed to obtain your Cosmetic Product Safety Report, build your Product Information File, appoint a Responsible Person, notify the product, and get your label checked before you print. Phoenix Safety Consultants can handle the entire regulatory side from start to finish, so you can focus on making beautiful products while we make sure they are ready, safe and legal to sell.

Labelling your body butter for sale

A body butter is a leave on cosmetic and needs a full label under Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009. The ingredient list uses INCI names in descending order, so this butter would list Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Maranta Arundinacea Root Powder, Tocopherol, and any fragrance and its allergens. A label and packaging review confirms the order, the allergens and the required information are all correct before you print.

Troubleshooting common problems

• A greasy feel. Increase the arrowroot slightly and lean on light oils rather than heavy ones.
• A grainy texture. The shea recrystallised. Melt gently, then chill quickly before whipping, and store cool.
• It will not hold its whip. The mixture was too warm or too soft when whipped. Chill it further next time.
• It melts in summer. Body butter is soft by nature. Add a little more cocoa butter for firmness and store it somewhere cool.

Variations

• Firmer summer butter. Raise the cocoa butter for a butter that holds up in warm weather.
• Fragrance free. Leave out the fragrance entirely for a gentle, unscented butter for sensitive skin.
• Extra nourishing. Swap the jojoba for rosehip or sea buckthorn oil for a more targeted facial and body balm.

From kitchen to shelf: selling your body butter legally

Handmade body butter is a cosmetic, so the moment you sell it, it must meet UK and EU cosmetic law before it goes on the market. Here is what compliance involves.

• A Cosmetic Product Safety Report. Every cosmetic sold in the UK or EU needs a Cosmetic Product Safety Report (CPSR), a formal safety assessment signed by a qualified Safety Assessor under Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009. If you make several variants, they can be assessed together as a range through our multiple variant CPSR service.
• The full document set. Alongside the CPSR you must hold a Product Information File, and your product must be notified. Our all in one compliance package covers the CPSR, PIF, SDS and notification together.
• Notification. Before sale, your product is notified in Great Britain through the Submit cosmetic product notifications service (SCPN), and in the EU through the CPNP, which we handle in our CPNP product notification service. It is declared under the correct frame formulation, a skin care cream, lotion or gel with a high level of fatty compounds, so your exact recipe stays private.
• Responsible Person and labelling. Every product needs a Responsible Person who is legally accountable to the authorities, and a compliant label. Phoenix can act as your UK and EU Responsible Person and carry out a label and packaging review.
• Selling in the United States? Under the Modernization of Cosmetics Regulation Act, the US Food and Drug Administration now requires facility registration and product listing for many cosmetics, which we manage through our FDA MoCRA listing service.

When you are ready to take your body butter to market, contact Phoenix Safety Consultants and we will guide you through every step.

Frequently asked questions

Why is my body butter greasy?

Too many heavy oils. Balance the butters with light, fast absorbing oils and a little arrowroot powder for a dry touch, non greasy finish.

Does whipped body butter need a preservative?

No, as long as it stays anhydrous. With no water it does not need a preservative, but you must keep water out of the jar in use.

Why did my body butter go grainy?

Shea butter recrystallised as it cooled slowly. Melt it fully but gently, then chill it quickly before whipping, and store the finished butter somewhere cool.

How is a body butter notified?

It is declared under the skin care frame formulation for products with a high level of fatty compounds, so your exact recipe stays private.

Do I need a CPSR to sell body butter?

Yes. A body butter is a leave on cosmetic, so to sell it in the UK or EU it needs a Cosmetic Product Safety Report, a PIF, a Responsible Person and a compliant label.

About the author

This article is educational. Work cleanly, keep anhydrous products free of water, and have any product professionally assessed before selling it.